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RICHARD'S
REPORT ...
The fundraising trek to the Ruwenzori Mountains in Uganda for the
RDF came about by sheer luck - I wanted to return and try some trekking
in Africa; something demanding and to raise funds - Jagged Globe, an expeditions
organisation was running such a trip and I adapted and tailor made its
itinerary, but using local organisations to get the full benefit of tourist
income.
I met Tembo at Kampala Airport, the 4WD Toyota was owned by James, the
Head of the Ruwenzori Mountaineering Services. Tembo, a local bakonja,
was to drive for about 10 days, across many pot laden dirt roads and some
fine tarmac routes - my threshold of fear gradually diminished.
The first few days were spent in Queen Elizabeth National Park viewing
wildlife, on the savannah and water channels. I stayed in a rather luxurious
lodge at Mweya; the game is building up after the slaughter by previous
groups of militias, who also terrorised the local population. Tembo lost
a sister and two brothers.
The trek started from the Mubuku Valley, flowing from the Ruwenzoris,
snowbound, deeply forested and with astonishing lush vegetation. Eustus,
the local guide from RMS and four porters carried the main gear. There
are no local jobs in the valley, so these jobs are "Hard to get".
The circular trek, comprised altitude gain from the Mubuku Valley at 1000m,
through the Bujuku Valley to Mount Speke at 4890 m. The lower reaches
are cultivated with bananas, cassava, millett, beans, sweet potatoes and
coffee - all local dietary staples. These give way to Montane forests
at 2000m to 3000m, then giant bamboo, heathers, lobelia higher up interlaced
with hypericum, alchemmilias and senecios, to name just a few. The lichens,
mosses and liverworts are surreal in their density. Primates can be heard
lower down and many colourful birds, especially the Ruwenzori turaco.
The
ten day trek uses hut accommodation, restored from the days of the now
defunct Ugandan Alpine Club - this year is the centenerary of the climbing
of the main peaks by the Duke of Abruzzi. We cooked on charcoal, basic
grub with lots of hot water for tea - I relied on fish, rice, pasta, porridge,
dried fruit, and oatmeal biscuits. The porters have beef, cassava and
boiled banana. The peaks of Speke and Margherita (5109) are snowbound,
icy and rocky. The altitude makes you breathless, your heart feels like
it is out of your body. It was cold and often, very wet, with very slow
walking between tree roots, rocks, bog and swollen rivers. But all around
is the most sublime scenery - lakes, white peaks, astonishing vegetation
and supremely wild and cut off.
The
peaks went well - a blizard got us down Speke fast! The circular descent
was the wettest I have ever been but we got through - one porter lost
all his gear after falling whilst wading through a swollen river - he
was O.K. I rested on the 8th day by Kitandora lake - by this time I was
feeling the effects of some tough walking, doing 6-11 hours a day, and
the constant need to watch where you are going. Eustus was a tower of
strength, 33 years of age, I was giving away 25 years and it always felt
it - he helped me so many times, fording rivers, climbing roped sections,
across glacier fields with crampons and ice axes. I fell once, banging
my head severely, but was O.K. as I had a mountaineering helmet on - the
underffot conditions were often icy on sheer rock with very few toeholds.
We all came down O.K. to sample cake and desserts at Ruboni Campsite -
we all enjoyed each others' company - it was a good team. The guides and
porters are paid $6 and $3 a day respectively - at least higher than most
local Ugandans at $1 a day - I made sure they all got a decent wage out
of it.
The highlight for me was to meet Felix and Patrick and their local team.
RDF has sponsored the buying of a large track of some of the last virgin
forest in the Mubuku Valley - much has been destroyed by over cultivation.
The aim is to use local guides, around a trail to show tourists the local
trees and their ruses, birds, wildlife, flora and fauna vegetation. The
income generated can then be ploughed back into the community. I stayed
at Ruboni campsite, funded by American, Canadian, Dutch and French aid
- a restaurant, 2 bandas and campsite - still in a fledgling state but
plenty of promise as tourist numbers should begin to rise above the present
500/600 who now walk the circuit each year; about 100/200 tackle the peaks.
I was shown local farming projects, using sustainable methods; showcase
plots to illustrate interplanting, mulching, diversification and terracing
techniques. Local handicrafts were sold. The women are energetic, creative
and a real force for change and are a primary focus of training.
In nearby Fort Portal, Taddeo a RDF field officer, showed me the local
RDF projects - building libraries, restoring classrooms - all very sound.
Tinka John, the charismatic organiser of the Bigodi Wetlands Project,
showed me how the Project income from tourists has slowly transformed
community facilities, especially schools.
I spent the last few days relaxing in Kibale National Forest, along with
the many primates, in a wonderful vernacularly built banda.
Ugandan people are so friendly - the countryside is lush and verdant -
the towns are vibrant, colourful and energetic. The poverty is real, tangible
and often quite distressing. The infrastructure is very poor, the housing
rudimentary; health and education are improving locally but massive funding
is needed especially to build classrooms and provide books. The trained
people are there - they need resources.
I felt enormously honoured and privileged to meet, get to know and socialise
with local Ugandans - I was made to feel so welcome. By going around with
Ugandans, it helped me to see their country from their perspective - warts
and all.
The fundraising is up to £2,300, past its target and a great credit
to all my friends and family and their generousity. The fundraising could
not hav been done without the heroic efforts of Charlotte Ramsay, a trustee,
who set up the website so well and managed all the online accounts and
progress reports - a very, very big thank you. I know that this money
will be very well used by the RDF and local Ugandans. I had a life changing
trip which will keep rippling through my life.
Richard
Rode
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